Celeste Doaks, Domino Sugar Factory
Celia Cruz was a salsa singer from Cuba, land of sugar, whose hit “Azúcar Negra” [Black Sugar] evokes the intersections of race and the sweetener industry. The Domino Sugar Factory in Baltimore is the last manufacturing plant still operating in the Baltimore’s Inner Harbor. It has been in operation for 90 years, and its sign is 61 years old.
This ninety-year-old relic still stands
on the inner harbor’s edge like a beauty
mark that refuses to fade into the epidermis.
Gone are the lathe maker, brazer,
plant manager, and all the old men
like my father who once felt purposeful
in America. Inside, dark grime collects
alongside this cloying smell, but the factory
cares not. It has grown a thick skin over
all these years to the tourists’ turned-up noses
as they swig down martinis inside hotel lobbies
adorned with enormous plastic plants. How refined!
The building’s a curmudgeon chugging along,
churning out packets of sweetener. As the sugar
transitions from maple to ivory, no trace
of Cuba exists. The sign forever burning red;
and we can almost hear Celia singing
Azúcar Negra somewhere beyond the grave.